# Power converter help needed



## BethA (Sep 15, 2002)

Actually probably gonna need a lot of help over the next few months.

My 1989 Suncruiser (Itasca 34' A) was kinda drowned in a river last March/April. (Long sad story) Just finally got custody of it. Now to fix all that's wrong.

First problem - have B-W Mfg. 45 amp power converter. Are they still in existance, where and are parts available. Is there a wiring diagram available for this thing. I have 120 power ok, won't know until lights dim if I'm running off of batteries or if converter/built in charger is working.

Fan worked at first, but now doesn't seem to be working, I have cover off - is there a heat sensor that either is not working or it isn't hot enough 'cause I have the cover off. 

Why are my 12 volt lights dimming and flickering and what is the clicking noise I can hear coming from the unit.

HELP!!


----------



## rv wizard (Sep 16, 2002)

Power converter help needed

To determine if the charger is charging ; while plugged in take a volt meter and check the voltage of the battery(s). If charging they should be around 13.5 volts. If 12 volts or less it is not charging. Did you have insurance on the Motorhome? If you find that the converter is bad it might be better to replace it with another converter or with a good inverter depending on how you will use the motorhome. Let us know you find.

Mike & Amy - Fulltimers
Ashley & Candi at school
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser on Spartan M.M. 330 hp. & 6 spd. Allison
#3 & #8 NASCAR
www.irv2.com Fl. Boomer


----------



## BethA (Sep 16, 2002)

Power converter help needed

Thanks for the info. I even know someone with a voltmeter!!

Next weeks purchases include an ohnmeter and Haynes 'bible' on 12v electrical systems. The 120 side seems to have survived nicely. I only have part of 1 circuit that's not working. The 12v systems seems to have taken a beating however.

Replacement converter as Midwest Salvage was $250. so if I can avoid replacing it I gotta, may need money for heater, furnace etc etc etc.
Sure wish I hadda had insurance, I wouldn't be asking any questions except where do I go to buy another RV. To get a good picture of mess, think Class A basement model standing in water deep enough to put 2 - 4" in the coach with 6" waves every time a barge passes. Then cry!! At this point I am just trying to get it liveable for the winter, will tackle the engine etc in the spring.

Thanks again.


----------



## C Nash (Sep 16, 2002)

Power converter help needed

Beth,
If the engine was under water, you should not wait until spring to ck it.  Remove all spark plugs, drain oil, remove oil filter, replace oil with a cheap grade, replace oil filter, use cheepy, spin engine to remove any water that may be in upper cylinders, squirt oil wd 40 into each cylinder and spin engine to lube all parts.  It should be ok now until spring when you can service it then with the proper oil and filter.  Good luck

Chelse L. Nash
fulltimer03@yahoo.com


----------



## BethA (Sep 16, 2002)

Power converter help needed

Thanks for the tip Chelse. That's on the schedule for this fall although I'm not overly concerned if the engine does not make it. It was kinda past it's prime anyways. Also after what happened I'd be always white-knuckled taking it on any kinda trip and I sure wouldn't sell it like that. The transmission has been drained and rinsed as has the rear end. 

Any tips on salvaging the generator which was also under water and does the gas tank have to be dropped and recoated inside  after I siphon about 45 gal of river water out of it.


----------



## Frenchyk (Sep 27, 2002)

Power converter help needed

Beth,

The same rules apply for the generator as does what C Nash stated about the motor. 

If you haven't drained the transmission and flushed it you will run in to problems with the steel parts know as "surface rusting". Parts like the clutch packs and check balls in the shifting body will rust and aluminum components will corrode enough to cause damage. Go ahead and flush it but have garage power flush the unit once you have new fluid and filter. Part of the flush is for the torque converter, this makes sure it does not have water in it as well. In the long run you will need to have it rebuilt.  

All your wheel bearing  will need to be inpected as well. Most seals are designed to keep out everything except standing water.


----------

