# Sway Bar info please



## sunco (Feb 21, 2007)

How do you know you need that stuff? What I have is an F-350 crew 7.3 diesel auto 4x4. The trailer is a 31' 2 axle toyhauler. Empty is 6850 GVWR is 9900. It's 10' 5 " w/o AC unit but I do have one. All I have on my truck is the (class 3?)hitch that I've used to pulled a 10YD dump trailer, 7x14 enclosed trailer & a 17' aluminum flatbed trailer.


----------



## C Nash (Feb 21, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

Anything in that length and weight you need the sway control IMO.  Little price to pay for safety for those 4 kids, wife, dog, toys and others on the road.


----------



## sunco (Feb 21, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

I talked w/ the dealer & he said what I was referring to was wieght disturbution bars. Leveling out the load so each axle has same braking power etc..... Everything needs to be flat. I'll have it checked out @ the dealer when I pick up next week. Thanx


----------



## Grandview Trailer Sa (Feb 21, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

I agree with your dealer.  Things need to be flat to tow properly.  

Reese just came out with a "Pro" series load leveling system.  The cost is much less than their typical hitches.  With the hitch bar, the 550lb., 750lb., and 1,000lb. systems retail for $299.00


----------



## Texas_Camper (Feb 21, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

Sway bars are only part of the hitch system.  A WDH (weight distributing hitch) does just that, distributes the hitch weight to the front tires if the tow vehicle and the trailer axles.  Depending on the distance from the rear axle of the tv to the hitch ball, you may induce a see-saw effect on your tow vehicle.  A 600 lb tongue weight, 3 feet behind the rear tv axle converts to 1800 ft lbs of leverage.  This leverage just doesn't push the rear bumper down, it also tends to "unweigh" the front axle of the tv.  Besides making the vehicle unlevel, raising the headlight beams to blind other drivers (if you ever tow at night, which most of us don't) it adversly affects braking and steering.  A properly adjusted WDH transfers 1/3 of the hitch weight to the front tv axle and 1/3 to the trailer axle.  for a long trailer, you should have both, in my opinion.....


----------



## sunco (Feb 24, 2007)

RE: Sway Bar info please

Ok , so I need the wdh & a sway bar. Is it recomended to get it from the dealer or should I buy it myself & install it. What cost am I looking @ so I know I'm not gettin hammer by the dealer? Which is a perfered brand name so I'm not gettin something crappy.  I'm traveling 700 miles to get the new trailer & will be bringing it back home empty.


----------



## Texas_Camper (Feb 24, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

In my opinion, if you think you may get cheated or end up with a crappy wdh, why in the world are you spending thousands for a trailer at this dealership anyway??????
A toy hauler is a big boxy thing to tow behind your vehicle and even when empty, is subject to wind inducing sway from passing 18 wheelers.    I would think your dealer should be able to advise you on the hitch/sway hookup.  Read Grandview Trailer Sales reply... about 300 bucks for good Reese system.  
Sway bars keep the trailer from swaying (keeps the tail from wagging the dog)
A wdh keeps the trailer and tow vehicle level and transfers hitch weight to the front wheels of the tow vehicle and trailer axles....I know that lots of sales people will assure you that whatever you're currently driving will safely tow whatever they are selling.  Not all, but lots of them will.  But in the case of a hitch/sway system, you should feel good about going with the dealer...
just my opinion


----------



## Grandview Trailer Sa (Feb 24, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

The $299.00 price is just for load leveling.  A friction sway bar should cost around $70.00, on top of that.  There are lots of "systems" on the market with various costs, but with your truck and the weight of the toy hauler, you should be fine with it.  

Unless the dealer is hitting you with a huge price tag for the hitch, let him set it up.  The hitch height has to be correct, the angle of the head needs to be correct so the bars are parallel to the frame of the trailer.  And if you do use a friction sway bar, the small ball that mounts on the trailer tongue has to be the correct length from the main ball.


----------



## sunco (Feb 24, 2007)

RE: Sway Bar info please

Texas , I'm just asking. I am gettin a good deal on the trailer. I didn't know the costs so I asked. When I called they said wdh $475 & sway bar $175.(installed prices) The guy didn't know would the manufacturer was- he'd check. See what I'm sayin.  Most times is good to have another opinion. This is my 1st TT 31'er. I pulled trailers & drove the big rigs, this hauler is new & you find out as you go along & I'm going.


----------



## sunco (Feb 27, 2007)

RE: Sway Bar info please

OK I need help. The dealer told me they sell Draw-Tite stuff. What is the correct model of what I need for WDH & the sway bar.

I looked & saw they have Class V Tow Beast rated @ 12,000 Lbs. Is this the one I need or smaller? My specs are list @ the top of this post. Thanx


----------



## BarneyS (Mar 3, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

Sunco,
For your trailer, I would suggest the Reese/DrawTite (same company) "Strait-line 1200 hitch.
http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchan...re_Code=E&Product_Code=66074&Category_Code=WD
It combines weight distribution along with the excellent Dual Cam sway control.  A single friction sway control, like you have been quoted by your dealer, is not adequate for a trailer that long.  Reese recommends using two friction controls on any trailer over 26 feet long.  The Dual Cam is much better than the friction controls and the cost is just a little more than one of them.  
You would need to add a drawbar (shank) and a ball to the above recommended hitch.

I used the Dual Cam system for quite a few years and it really worked great.  With the tongue weight your trailer will have (probably over 1000lbs) the Dual Cam should be ideal.  In my opinion, you do not need the Class V Tow Beast series.  It uses a 2.5 inch receiver and shank and is probably overkill for your needs.
Barney


----------



## sunco (Mar 4, 2007)

RE: Sway Bar info please

BarneyS you are correct. I picked up my new hauler this friday & brought it back to NJ from SC. What I got was the12,000 WDH unit, that was right But no sway bar. I will be getting that & here's why. Even if the trailer pulls well (I was empty) the winds blew me all about at times not to mention the 70-80mph 18 wheelers. Thanx for your imput. Your right on !


----------



## BarneyS (Mar 4, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

I am surprised that the dealer let you get out of the lot without some type of sway control.  A trailer that length should not be towed without a sway control in my opinion.  If you got the Reese or Drawtite hitch, then your bars should have the crook in the ends.  You can add the Dual Cam unit to that hitch and have the exact same equivlent to the hitch I recommended in my other post.  The HP Dual Cam Kit#26002 will bolt on to your trailer A frame and fit with your existing WD bars.  It is available at many places for around $160-$175.
http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchan...re_Code=E&Product_Code=26002&Category_Code=SC

http://rvwholesalers.com/catalog/product.php?productid=347&cat=74&page=1
Barney


----------



## sunco (Mar 5, 2007)

RE: Sway Bar info please

Thanx , thats what I'm doing


----------



## Your Old Dog (Mar 30, 2007)

RE: Sway Bar info please

Thanks for the topic!  I go thru this tomorrow!  Using the same exact truck as you with a Sprinter 272rls on it.  Although I was able to purchase much closer to home then you, I understand that sometimes you have no choice but to buy from someone you don't know.  I don't know the guys who own the RV store we bought from either, they seem nice but I suppose Jeffery Dalmer seemed nice to his victims to lure them to his home.  This forum helps insure that we are getting at least a reasonable deal and not getting robbed.  I expect the dealer to make money, I just don't want them retirening on what they get from me !! LOL

Have fun RV'ing.  We can't wait ourselves!


----------



## dmjaway (Apr 7, 2007)

RE: Sway Bar info please

I have been trying to digest the information regarding wdh&rsquo;s and I see that the Reese system is quite popular. What about some of the other systems, such as Blue Ox, Eze-Lift, Hidden Hitch, and Drawtite? Are they comparable, better, in some ways?

Dave


----------



## BarneyS (Apr 12, 2007)

RE: Sway Bar info please

*"What about some of the other systems, such as Blue Ox, Eze-Lift, Hidden Hitch, and Drawtite? Are they comparable, better, in some ways?"*

Reese, Hidden Hitch, DrawTite and some others are all part of the same company (Cequent Towing Products).   They are all just about the same quality and look and function about the same.  There are some other manufactures also like Curt, Robin, EZLift, and quite a few others that are in the same boat.  It really does not matter which one you pick, they will all look and work about the same.   The Reese and Drawtite do have one advantage however.  They use WD spring bars that have a "crook" or bend in the ends and can accept the Dual Cam sway control with no modification.  The Dual Cam is a large improvement over the standard friction sway control that most of the others use.  You can also use the friction control on the Reese/DrawTite as well. 
http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchan...re_Code=E&Product_Code=26002&Category_Code=SC 

The Blue Ox is a bit different.  It uses a built in sway control that is done by the friction between the WD bar sockets and the hitch head.  It should function well and is very similar to another hitch called the Equal-i-zer.    Reese has come out with a new hitch that also functions  like these two and is called the "Pro Series SC Weight Distribution Hitch.
http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchan...re_Code=E&Product_Code=49580&Category_Code=WD
I don't know much of anything about this hitch as it is brand new and I have not seen it or heard any reports on how well it works.
Barney


----------



## Lorraine (Apr 24, 2007)

RE:  I would also like Sway Bar info please

I don't want to jump in on your thread and I apologize but I am new to this, have no idea what I'm talking about and just knew that I needed sway bar info...so...here I am.

We have just agreed (nothing signed yet) to purchase a Cougar Travel Trailer in Georgia.  We live in SC.  It's a Keystone Cougar 294RLS. We are VERY new to trailer life and did have a small Casita (which, surprisingly, needed a sway bar!) but this long trailer is something new for us.  All we can remember is being in Wyoming and the winds kicking up and us almost being swept off the road.

The dealer in Georgia recommends an equalizer hitch.  I looked it up and the brand name IS Equalizer.  It's a 4 pt system  weight distribution hitch with sway bars.  We don't know which one we should be getting and we are, right now, trusting the dealer.  We did really like them when we decided to purchase. 

The price online retail for this unit is about $650 to $700, other sites may have it for $500.  I am not going to go crazy looking for the best price, I just want a good system. The dealer is charging us $995.00 to install this system and also to install the brake control (is that it?) in our Nissan Titan Crew Cab. We would never DREAM of installing it ourselves.

This item is very important to us as safety is a concern regarding where we'll be traveling. That little Casita had us worried more than once and we had that little sway bar for it.  LOL

I have heard of Blue Ox and Draw Tite and those items but not of the one called Equalizer.  I looked it up, watched a video on it and it appears to make sense (with what limited knowledge I have regarding such things) but I would like other opinions and also would like to know how to make sure what is done is being done correctly.

If there is a brand that performs much better then we would arrange to have that installed elsewhere when we pick up our trailer.  If anyone has recommendations please let me know.

My husband is a great guy but he won't second guess anything.  He just jumps in, feet first. (It's how he got stuck with me) I'm a bit more cautious...that's how come I have him. I need to investigate this on my own so I could use some help from some of you out there that know what you're talking about.

Thank you, and thank you thread starter for allowing me to butt in.  Lorraine


----------



## BarneyS (Apr 24, 2007)

RE:  I would also like Sway Bar info please

Lorraine,
The Equal-i-zer hitch is a very good hitch that has a loyal following.  It uses friction for the sway control but has about 4 or 5 times the friction control of a standard friction bar so therefor is much more effective.  If you already have the receiver on your truck, then you can purchase the Equal-i-zer online for a MUCH cheaper price than the one quoted by your dealer.  This place has it for $399.
http://rvwholesalers.com/catalog/product.php?productid=268&cat=0&page=1
You could install it yourself or have your dealer do it.  It is not hard to do.

For a brake controller, I would suggest you get a Prodigy brake controller.  It is basically a plug and play unit that works very smoothly and does not require adjustment all the time like the cheaper controllers do.  http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/product.php?productid=60&cat=54&page=1
I am including these links not to recommend this dealer but so you can see what the costs are.  I have, however, dealt with this place before and have been satisfied with my transactions.
Good luck.  
Barney


----------



## Lorraine (Apr 24, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

Thanks Barney...so let me get this straight.  I am thinking the 'receiver' is the female end of the hitch.  Am I right? We have a  2005 Nissan Titan V8, crew cab (short bed) and a tow pkg with the trans cooler and all that factory installed. Do you mean we can purchase these products, go to say a Camping World or any dealer and have them installed? I can guarantee you my husband will NOT attempt to install anything. 
I guess I can call around and see what the cost would be in our area for installation.  I thought that almost $1000.00 for the hitch & brake controller was a lot as my salesperson (a woman) knew less than I did about all of this...and I know nothing.
I did look online at the EQUALIZER HITCH and it appears that no bolts are needed, not drilled in anyway. Maybe my sons can do it for me if I can get my husband to drive from Ga to SC without it installed.  LOL  Thanks Barney....love your website!  Lorraine


----------



## BarneyS (Apr 24, 2007)

Re: Sway Bar info please

You are correct in the receiver is the 2 inch square tube "female" part on the rear of your truck.  There is no drilling at all to installing an Equal-i-zer hitch.  It is simply measuring and bolting on a couple of brackets, mounting the ball on the hitch head (this is usually the hardest part as it takes a large thinwall socket that must be torqued to about 400ft/pds.  Best to let a dealer or auto shop put it on the hitch head), bolting the hitch head onto the drawbar or shank and inserting the whole thing into the receiver.  The adjustment of the WD spring bars and tilt of the hitch head is where it gets a bit harder.  Most dealers do not have the expertise or don't want to take the necessary time to do it right.  If you will send me an e-mail (listed on my website) I will refer you to a place that has step by step instructions for adjusting your hitch.  This probably will be necessary even if you have a dealer do the work -  not always but most of the time.  
You could purchase the items and take them to your selling dealer and have him install them.    
You are going to need the items installed before you tow the trailer home.  He will charge you for the installation but as long as it is a reasonable fee I see no reason for him not to do so.  Camping World also does this type of thing and so do many private RV service shops.   You could take the brake controller and hitch head and drawbar to Camping World, have them install the ball and hitch head to the drawbar and install your brake controller,  and then all you would need to do at the dealer is bolt the brackets to the trailer A frame, insert the hitch into the receiver, hook up the bars, plug the electric cord in and drive home.  Not hard at all.
Barney


----------

