# Sunset Creek Slideout



## ARCHER

Have an older 2008 Sunset Creek that I am having an issue with.  The slideout does not seem to want to work.  When I apply power and press the in or out button it might start to work then stop or it may not even work at all.  Was thinking that I should replace the breaker on the tongue and go from there.  I had done this several years ago and it worked.  It worked last fall when we got to Florida foe the winter and I normally test it part way thru our stay.  I guess I can try the manual crank to bring it in in April, but sure would be nice to use "electric". Any thoughts out there as to why it might be intermittent??


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## C Nash

Archer, It sounds like a bad connection.  Is the battery fully charged?  I would start at the battery to see if all connections are clean and tight.  It should have a relay so check the connections there.  When all else fails get out the VOM.  May also be binding on something.  I would give Ken a call and ask him as it is the one you purchased from him right?  Good to see you still here.  Let us know what you find.


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## ARCHER

Chelse,  Yes good to be back here.  Been a while.  Have had a few medical issues.  Heart blockage but Dr put in Stent and I think I am good to go.  Glad they found it before a major issue.  Hope your good and family good and all my friends on RVUSA are doing good.  We made it thru the Huricane and the ole gal withstood it pretty good.  Had to  put a new awning on, but other stuff was minor considering we are right on the beach and it hit 25 miles straight off shore.  I agree that it is probably a connection and probably the relay (I had that replaced two times, so I already have one to put in (like a breaker), so will put it in and see if that fixes it.  Other wise will start wire tracing.  Battery is good.


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## C Nash

Does it work on rack and pinion type mechanism?  have you lube it?


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## ARCHER

yes, I think so.  It was good and greased up from day one.  On the two bars under the slide out there are teeth, which I think it the rack and pinion type.  A gear the is run by a motor that brings in the slide via the teeth on the wheel.  So, I guess this is rack and pinion, but I am not the smartest cookie on the sheet.  I've got about 6 weeks to figure it out.  The motor is under the trailer covered so I cannot see it without removing the heavy duty cover underneath.  Last resort, I guess.


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## C Nash

clean all the contacts on the relay first Archer.  lot of times a slight tap on the motor while pushing in button will work.  Should be fairly easy to manual roll in as you will only do it once.  I am assuming you leave it in Fl.  Message me where you are


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## ARCHER

Yup, we leave it here .  Melbourne Beach, just South of Cocoa Beach on the Atlantic side.  I already have the relay/breaker so might just go ahead and install it.  Will see if I can clean all the contacts, etc.  I have never seen the motor so not real sure how to get to it.  Do you think it is a rack/pinion system with the bars with teeth on them, etc??  If I need to manual roll it in, I will just do that and then hopefully roll it back out next fall.  We only plan on keeping it maybe 2-3 more years then having it hauled away for a fish camp trailer.


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## C Nash

Sounds like a rack and pinion system Archer.  Do you hear a click or anything when you push the out button?  Is the slide bedroom or couch slide?  May be able to get to motor from inside under couch or bed.  On my MH living room slide I can get to it, motor, from Bay and bedroom slide under the bed from inside.  If mice are in area they like to chew the wires for some reason.  My slide is pretty easy to manual slide out just slow go.  I know you said battery is good but have you checked it under load?  If it does not have a full charge the converter want work the slide


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## ARCHER

When I push the button to bring it in or put it out, it does not click, just start to come in or out then when it it all the way out or all the way in, it does click then, but it will only move a couple inches before it stops or it will not even work at all.  The slide is living room with couch and breakfast nook (pretty long slide, 15Foot maybe).  I know under the couch is just carpet, no access.  Will check battery under load (guess I unplug 110 and then test it, correct?  If plugged into main power line and the converter is working why would there not be enough power to move the slide?  My battery gage shows full charge on the battery.  I had replaced the battery two years ago and I always make sure I keep distilled water in it and I used VM just a couple weks ago and it read 14 Volts.  So, I will check (replace the breaker on the tongue, check all the electric connections, check the battery again, see if I can get to the motor and check it's connections and power to it.  After all of that, I will post the results.  Wish me luck, I may need it.  Not as young as I once was, but as young as I will ever be as of today.


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## C Nash

Well I just passed 77 so i know exactly what you mean Archer.  By it wanting to start just makes me think Battery but just opinion.  Have you just returned to Fl?  Do you leave power hooked up when gone for summer?  battery showing 14 volts tells me the converter is working and supplying full charge like batt may be low.  Unhook from shore power, turn on all lights and maybe furnace and then read batt volts.  I did read back and saw where you checked batt 2 weeks ago so if bat is good it should be fully charged by now.


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## ARCHER

Will do.  I do not leave power connected for summer.  Even turn off 12 volts switch, so no power at all being supplied to trailer for 5 months.  Been here since last Sep.


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## C Nash

Waiting to see what you find Archer


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## ARCHER

I am not in a big big hurry but will do the checks in the next week and will let you know what I find.   We have a guest right now and when they leave, I will get to work.  Won't leave you hanging too long, hee hee


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## ARCHER

Chelse, have a related question on the issue.  I purchased a 30 amp breaker that will automatically reset if it pops (internally).  this is the breaker I was planning on putting in-line where I had originally replaced the relay before to get the slide to work.  Did I or am I missing the boat by putting a 30 amp fuse/breaker in???  Or should I use a smaller one like 15 or 20 amps?  Don't want to hurt the motor or anything.  I believe you said the battery actually runs the slide motor.   If so, using a 30 amp breaker/relay bad???


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## ARCHER

Chelse,  well, put in the new 30 amp breaker (checked with ken and he said the 30 amp would work ok).  Nothing happened.  got out the vom and checked DC voltage between the new breaker contacts and get nothing.  Should I check the voltage on the wire coming from the battery side and ground it someplace else/other than the other terminal on the breaker to see if power is getting to the breaker?   There is a metal box on side of tongue with wires going in from battery side (several wires coming from battery and the vehicle plug for driving lights and brakes, which is not connected at all) and the wire that connects from battery side for the breaker is coming out of that metal box.  Could the wires inside the box be screwed up (rusted, etc.)?   I did check the battery using vom again directly, not with AC current turned off and load from lights, etc., put on the battery and again, it reads over 13.**   Still not sure how to get to the slide motor.  Any more hints??


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## C Nash

All i would do is start with the VOM and trace voltage.  Remember to work there has to be a good ground.  Do you have voltage at the switch that activates the slide?  You really need to find the motor and trace back from there.  I don't know on yours but on mine the voltage just reverses to go out and end.  If yours is same there should be voltage on one of the wires on out and other on in.  I guess you don't have a wiring diagram for it.  I just don't understand why MFGs don't send them with TT.  You may can get diagnoses help from the MFG of the rv.  Ken had no suggestions of how to trouble shoot or how to get to motor?


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## ARCHER

Hey tks.  I have a couple other questions. When I hooked up the new breaker, I did not mount it to the tongue like the old one.  Does it have to be mounted or just needs the wires connected from battery and then to I don't know where yet?  If I put the vom black and read pointed contacts on each of the post on the new breaker, I get nothing on meter.  If I put the red vom on the post on the new breaker (battery side wire) and then ground the vom black wire to the trailer should I get a reading?  I believe I have power to the switch that operates the slide.  There is a power switch that lights up red, and then there is a switch that is in-out.  After I installed the new breaker, I tried the in switch and nothing.  Then I tried it for out and still nothing (use to kind of click, click, click when on out and slide was all the way out.  Nothing now.  I cleaned the battery terminals.  If I am not getting power to the new breaker the problem must be in the small electrical box on tongue that I explained about earlier.  I guess the most important question right now is:  how do I measure the power to the new breaker?  Maybe I need to check the resistance (ohms on the new breaker to make sure it is open.  How do I do that?  sorry to be such a pain in the bu**.  Not an electrician but try hard.


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## C Nash

I just don't understand the breaker on the tongue Archer.  Most relays do have to be grounded.  Red lead to positive and black to ground, frame or any clean metal area.  I would think the slide relay would be in a protected area.


(If I put the red vom on the post on the new breaker (battery side wire) and then ground the vom black wire to the trailer should I get a reading?)  Yes

 (If I am not getting power to the new breaker the problem must be in the small electrical box on tongue that I explained about earlier)   Are you sure that is not the brake/brake-away switch? 
Is the ph number you gave me several yr back still same?


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## ARCHER

Chelse guess I am just not the smartest cookie on the sheet.  I am not sure if the breaker I talk about is a relay or just a breaker.  When I bought it from RV store, they said it should be ok for 30 amp breaker.  Ken said 30 amp is good to use for slide.  The box I am talking about is the size of a regular house electrical box (I am sure you know what a house electrical box looks like for connecting wires inside it etc.) mounted on the inside of the tongue area on one side and has the battery cables, tow vehicle line and the breakaway wires going into it.  one of the wires coming out the side of it goes to the breaker I am talking about which has two terminals on it.  one wire is the one coming from that box (which I assume is the battery power) and connects to the one terminal.  The other wire connected to the other terminal goes to I assume the slide motor.  I sent email to Ken and he said I should be getting 12 volts on both of the terminals on the breaker using VOM red to terminal and black to ground.  I tried that yesterday and was not getting any reading on my VOM, is why I think perhaps the connections inside the electrical box I am talking about may be where the problem is (rust rust rust).  The cover is one of those that you take out two screws and the cover comes off, except that the cover and screws are so rusted that I will have to just pry the cover off.  Ken said the breaker does not need to be grounded to the trailer.  I will go out again a little later and check the power to the breaker again.  the phone number is the same but I cannot talk on the phone as I am now about totally deaf.  I have a month to work this issue before we leave for Indy, so will keep plugging away.  I will keep you posted as to what is happening and if a miracle happens and it starts to work.


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## ARCHER

NEW UPDATE:  just checked the breaker terminals and I am getting voltage on both sides of the breaker.  Now I need to check two more things.  The switch inside the trailer that has the power switch (light is on) and the other switch that has the in/out switch on it.  HOW DO I CHECK THE IN/OUT SWITCH?  After I determine that the in/out switch is working,  I will move on to the motor to see if power is getting to it.


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## C Nash

Archer use the same procedure as on relay.  Red vom prob to one leg of switch and black to a good ground.


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## ARCHER

Chelse,  found the motor and can get to it to check it.  Appears that there is only 2 wires going to it and it does not appear to be rusted.  If I put VOM probes at the motor wire connections, and have Linda push the in/out toggle switch inside, should I get a reading of approx. 12 volts?  If I do, I might tap on motor to see if it might be stuck.  I guess if it still does not work, guess the motor is fried.  If no power at motor connections, does that mean that power is not getting to the motor (I know, dumb question)?  If there is no power, should I replace the toggle switch (pretty cheap I think)?  If that does not work, I am at a loss.  Maybe I should check and sand/file all ground connections to the frame also.  If all of that does not solve the problem, I will just try and bring it in manually before we leave.  Maybe I need extensive counseling for brain bubbles.


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## ARCHER

Just tried to check the toggle switch inside.  used VOM red lead on red connection for in toggle (while Linda held toggle in and black VOM lead to ground by door.  Got a reading of 8.8 volts.  Good or Bad?  Should it be 12 volts?


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## ARCHER

Well, talk about feeling absolutely stupid.  Got to the motor like I said.  cut the red connection and tried to connect the VOM lead and ground it with Linda pushing the toggle and got no reading.  Did tap on side of motor a few times while under the trailer and decided to wait until you responded.  Low and behold, came inside, pushed the toggle switch and slide started to come in, so stopped and put it back out (only moved a couple inches), but motor sounded strong.  Must have been an issue inside the motor like you originally said to tap on it.  At this point, I am not going to try and bring it all the way in.  Will wait until the day  I leave and then see if it will come in.  If not, will crank it in.  Sorry for all the confusion.  Your still great as an advisor and FRIEND.


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## C Nash

ARCHER said:


> Well, talk about feeling absolutely stupid.  Got to the motor like I said.  cut the red connection and tried to connect the VOM lead and ground it with Linda pushing the toggle and got no reading.  Did tap on side of motor a few times while under the trailer and decided to wait until you responded.  Low and behold, came inside, pushed the toggle switch and slide started to come in, so stopped and put it back out (only moved a couple inches), but motor sounded strong.  Must have been an issue inside the motor like you originally said to tap on it.  At this point, I am not going to try and bring it all the way in.  Will wait until the day  I leave and then see if it will come in.  If not, will crank it in.  Sorry for all the confusion.  Your still great as an advisor and FRIEND.



Never feel stupid Archer.  Sorry but our computer went out and had to buy a new one.  Glad you got it fixed.  Not unusual for motors to do that after sitting.  Now you know how to get to motor so you are doing great.  A light tap on a motor is a mechanics best fix LOL.  Hey, I have been a camper for just about half a century well guess I have since we started in 60s LOL.  Last camping trip I had no electricity when hooked up.  Have the energy management system so suspected the worse.  Took the power 50 amp male end off and it was ok.  Took cover of switch over system and it was ok.  Went inside and checked power to main supply ok so dang what to do.  Started checking all fuse and no volts to bathroom and like a hammer it hit me.  Went in the bathroom pushed the Gfi and bingo power so never should you feel stupid  It happens LOL


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## ARCHER

Yup, glad it is at least working right now.  Hope it still does in 5 weeks.  Also, glad it was just a tap on the motor (and also replacement of the 30 amp breaker, cause it was totally rusted).  Had checked with RV repair shop down this way and got a note fro them that if the motor was bad it would be around $700-$900 including actuator to replace.  For that price, I would have manually cranked it.  Take care of yourself.


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## C Nash

I had to replace one of my slide motors and that was the price but thank goodness I have a friend that has rv repair and he got me one for 300.  On line is best place to get parts


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