# Allison MT643 - Can't get reverse with Stone Bennett air shift  (Out of "sync")



## JSteegs-CedarHill (Apr 22, 2019)

Winterized a perfectly good, running (and driving lol) Holiday Rambler , parked it for 3 months. And while getting ready for 1st trip, went to pull out of driveway......much to my dismay NO REVERSE!!  and NO understand how THAT happens....
On the monitor, It does show shifting from R which is actually N, N which is actually D, D which is actually L3 and L3 which is actually L2 (will NOT get to L1)
Systems are reacting to the monitor, NOT what gear the Tanny is actually in. Meaning, I can shut down the RV with the monitor showing N. When in all actuality, the Tranny is in D. 
1st troubleshoot -  Going to adjust linkage right now. 4/22
I've done a good amount of research, just starting with the easiest and quickest to eliminate an item.
Would very much appreciate any input.
Thanks, John


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## JSteegs-CedarHill (Apr 23, 2019)

UPDATE!!
Fortunately!,
For me,....it was the BEST case scenario. (adjust and tighten linkage) There are a multitude of nightmarish wiring issues out there that I have NO DESIRE to be a pert of. .
I did a great deal of research and trouble shooting prior to this post.
This ALL began with a "NO CRANK- NO START" situation. And I usually pride myself in drawing up a "punch list" before the trouble shooting begins, so I stay the course with a steady as she goes attitude.... ready for anything. BUT, ...ALWAYS, ALWAYS! Starting with the "stupid, easy, obvious stuff 1st"!!
Sooooo, what your about read is a GREAT example of where NOT to start the process. unless learning how to hot-wire your RV is what you would like to learn.
Like I said... BEST CASE SCENARIO in the end.... for me. HOWEVER......
  I didn't simplify my "process" enough to start!! (remember..... I pride myself on THAT) And I PAID THE PRICE!!
the price being TIME (sometimes....WORSE than the wallet).The "NO CRANK" was due to the linkage NOT being tight enough and therefore it wasn't in neutral, simple as that!! and we all understand how that works. When and how it got to be in that state, is STILL a burning question. ???BUT THAT'S where my problem (incorrect process of elimination)  started. I just wasn't thinking stupid enough (my DAD would argue that point) LOL
MY TOTALLY AMAZINGLY WRONG PROCESS:
Battery terminals - (all of them) including ALL connections to the starter solenoids / relays etc. etc. Sanded, polished clean and shiny, I wasn't going to get caught down the road if someone asked me...well, did you bla bla bla  (my dad would be proud) We have argued for years how important THAT is. And he IS right BTW. but I have no crank still.
Then came the "voltage drop" tests across the board at each terminal....ALL were within the acceptable range.
OK,! Then it MUST be!... one of the solenoids (one of the 4!!) off they come, one by one. bench tested each. voltage, continuity and ohms when engaged. (AND YES!! THEY SHOULD HAVE A RESISTANCE READING  (5ish is good) The fact that they close is NOT ENOUGH, the fact that they close, does NOT mean they are capable of carrying the load WE would like to put though them. DON'T let anyone tell you different. there's a lot of "THEM" out there. If I on;y had a buck for every time someone told me..."If you hear it snap, clack, thug etc. etc.....IT'S GOOD!!" WRONG ANSWER! and I'd be a rich man.
AND I'm still with a NO CRANK
Neutral safety continuity... check
Ignition....check  (I think I'm 12, 14 maybe 16 hours in by now) 
Wiring diagrams in hand and on table - time to start tracing and checking "S" posts at the solenoids / relays. A simple what "S" post has juice during a key on or cranking attempt. {mixed results} I don't think I was capable of deciphering it anyways!  I was armed to the gill with information, but still no results and my head was about to explode!
Did I mention 4 solenoids, 1 ignition, 3 auxiliary switches, house batts come into play AND I have a remote rear start panel by the big Caterpillar back there.
OK. WELL,.....While I'm at it, might as well give  the starter a good testing.... (while on board)
Starter motor (main) - check.!  sounded awful though.... lol
Solenoid kicking out gear -  check!
Got power everywhere EXCEPT.... between ignition and the STARTER "S" post when I need it. (sometimes referred to as "trigger post, wire, etc. etc.)
20 some-odd hours in ++,..... JOHN, just walk away and regroup.
That's when I came up with the "BRILLIANT" idea. If the starting system isn't going to deliver the message / trigger to the starter solenoid. by god I will!! Fabricate a lead. bolt it to the correct "S" post on the starter (Mine has 2} alligator clip on the other end, (ignition key ON. or it will just turn over, not start) and just touch the engine batt positive and WALLAH,! BAM, alleluia!!! i'm up and running. (BTW you now know how to hot wire your rig if ever needed) You are effectively bypassing every safety mechanism on board!! (they do go bad now and then) lol
ALL kinds of excitement , jumping up and down, I skipped in joy to the captains chair! I BEAT YOU, I WON! I thought....
Hopped in, Hit the shifter paddle, (didn't look at the display) gave 'er a little throttle and off I go.......FORWARD!!! and almost into a tree!
What the @#%!&*!!! Wait, wait, wait,.. what in the _______just happened?? 
What happened......was I DIDN'T think stupid, easy ENOUGH.!!!
Don't let this be YOU!! Learn from me and take it from me, sometimes it PAYS to think as stupid as you possibly can! So check the linkage and air shift connection for proper tightness, alignment, etc.etc. BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE. And Don't even look at the wiring trouble shooting process.....unless you WANT to have nightmares....!
Wait till I tell my DAD, he'll be overjoyed to hear THIS stupid ordeal and how his son is just as stupid as ever!.LMAO!
OFF TO TALLADEGA WE GO!
Safe journeys to all,,!!
Brought to you by John Steger
a 1986 40' Holiday Rambler Imperial, propelled by a CAT 3208
Cedar Hill MO   BE SAFE OUT THERE!


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